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Optimus Prime Climbing Shoe
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Evolv

Optimus Prime Climbing Shoe

$130.00 Item # 2946
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3 of 5 Stars! (1 Review)
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Evolv Optimus Prime Climbing Shoe

Chris Sharma designed this versatile down cambered shoe for front point edging and climbing vertical to overhanging climbs. It offers high performance in a comfortable fit.

FEATURES

  • Perforated upper provides breathability and elasticity
  • Semi-symmetric toe box maximizing the edging area

SPECS

  • PROFILE: Semi symmetrical down cambered (CS1 last)
  • SOLE: 4.2mm TRAX® XT-5 high friction rubber
  • RAND: 2.2mm TRAX® duro-rand
  • UPPER: Perforated elastic Synthratek synthetic upper
  • LINING: Cotton fiber lining in heel cup/toe box
  • MIDSOLE: MX-P 1mm half-length midsole

SIZING

EVOLV shoes are made out of vegan friendly synthetic uppers and do NOT stretch. Please keep that in mind when sizing.

SIZING CHART

U.S.

7.5

8

8.5

9

9.5

10

10.5

11

11.5

12

12.5

13

13.5

14

U.K.

6.5

7

7.5

8

8.5

9

9.5

10

10.5

11

11.5

12

12.5

13

EUR

40

41

41.5

42

42.5

43

44

44.5

45

46

46.5

47

48

48.5

The overwhelming consensus has been that if you buy your street shoe size in EVOLV shoes, you will get a snug climbing shoe fit. Since our shoes do not stretch, there is no need to size down.

SIZING TIPS

When selecting your size, please keep the following key information in mind to make the best decision.

  • TIP #1: Finding the perfect size for your EVOLV shoes is critical in getting the maximum return for your intended use of the shoes. In other words, you need to decide what you intend to use your shoes for before selecting the model and size. Ask yourself if you want to use it as a comfortable all-day shoe, a tight performance shoe, or snug fitting all-around shoe and then size them appropriately.
  • TIP #2: EVOLV shoes are made out of vegan friendly synthetic uppers and do NOT stretch. Therefore, please keep that in mind when trying them on and selecting the right size. The shoes will quickly mold to your feet and fit like a glove, however, unlike leather shoes, they will not stretch out and get sloppy.
  • TIP #3: EVOLV shoes are scaled so that your US street shoe size will give a snug climbing shoe fit. Of course, this is not true in all cases, but it's a great starting point.

FIT PROFILE

The best climbing shoes are the ones that fit your feet, feel comfortable, and don't give you any pain. We designed shoes with various foot profiles to ensure that one of our models will fit your profile. Here are the four basic profiles of our shoes:

  • Asymmetrical profile - Longest at the big toe and tapers down to the pinky toe.
  • Downturned toe asymmetrical profile - Asymmetrical toe profile with a downward pointing toe for maximum performance on steep and overhanging terrain.
  • Symmetrical profile - Longest around the 2nd toe and tapers down on both ends. Commonly known as Morton's toe profile.
  • Narrow/low volume profile - Ideal for women and men who need a lower volume shoe that is narrow in the forefoot and heel and lower cut around the ankle bone.
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Product Rating: 3 of 5 Stars!
Total Reviews: 1

Great Shoe

Reviewed by: PJ T. on 15 Oct 2009
Knowledge: Somewhat high understanding - Owned: 1 week - 1 month

Reviewer's Rating: 3 of 5 Stars!

Pros: I really like the Evolv Optimus-Prime. I bought mine pretty tight to use for bouldering and single pitch routes. Over the last year or so, I've tried to lots of different kinds of shoes trying to find one that fit me well. The Optimus Prime is not perfect, but it is the best fitting shoe I've ever had... finally something that fits my heel reasonably well. It really sticks to small features. I've heard that some people don't like the rounded toe, but it is fine by me - just put it on that small little edge or point and trust that it will stick.

Cons: The shoe is expensive (but they all are now) and the rubber is wearing out fast... it's only been a few weeks and the crisp edge is long gone. There is a trade off between sticky and longevity. If you're not the kind of person that sends shoes off to be resoled you might want to think about something with longer lasting rubber.

Other Thoughts: I found it to fit and climb very similar to the La Sportiva Katana. Lots of people around here like FiveTen Anasazi. I caved to popularity and got a pair. I like the toe box and the general form factor, but the heel just doesn't fit right, so I got pair small enough that they wouldn't slip off. Well, they are too small, just plain hurt and, even small, they still don't fit my heel. The Evolv Optimus-Prime has a different (and for me, much better) heel fit than FiveTen or Mad Rock.

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