Reviewed by: PJ T.
on 15 Oct 2009
Knowledge: Somewhat high understanding - Owned: 1 week - 1 month
Pros: I really like the Evolv Optimus-Prime. I bought mine pretty tight to use for bouldering and single pitch routes. Over the last year or so, I've tried to lots of different kinds of shoes trying to find one that fit me well. The Optimus Prime is not perfect, but it is the best fitting shoe I've ever had... finally something that fits my heel reasonably well. It really sticks to small features. I've heard that some people don't like the rounded toe, but it is fine by me - just put it on that small little edge or point and trust that it will stick.
Cons: The shoe is expensive (but they all are now) and the rubber is wearing out fast... it's only been a few weeks and the crisp edge is long gone. There is a trade off between sticky and longevity. If you're not the kind of person that sends shoes off to be resoled you might want to think about something with longer lasting rubber.
Other Thoughts: I found it to fit and climb very similar to the La Sportiva Katana. Lots of people around here like FiveTen Anasazi. I caved to popularity and got a pair. I like the toe box and the general form factor, but the heel just doesn't fit right, so I got pair small enough that they wouldn't slip off. Well, they are too small, just plain hurt and, even small, they still don't fit my heel. The Evolv Optimus-Prime has a different (and for me, much better) heel fit than FiveTen or Mad Rock.
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